“Good bread is the most fundamentally satisfying of all foods; and good bread with fresh butter, the greatest of feasts.” ~ James Beard (1903-1985), Beard on Bread.
This August, my aunt Mae was here visiting from the beautiful part of Québec known as La Gaspésie. As I mentioned in my article on Ox-eye Daisies & Other Gaspésian Treats, it’s always such a pleasure to see her and her husband. But this time was extra special in a way, because she showed me how to make her wonderful oatmeal bread and my paternal Grandmother’s white bread, both of which are so delicious I could easily eat a huge loaf in one sitting! With fresh, cold butter on each thick slice, of course!
There’s a wonderful sense of calm that comes from kneading dough with your hands, of shaping it and watching it rise, and from the delicious aromas as you prepare and bake it …
The process of baking bread from scratch is surely one of life’s most sensual pleasures ♥ This ancient art, which at its simplest consists in adding a liquid to finely ground grains so as to moisten and bind the elements, then repeatedly pressing, stretching, and pulling the paste with ones’ hands to develop the gluten and form a dough which is then baked, involves and pleases each and every sense. Though “the development of leavened bread can probably be traced to prehistoric times” (source wikipedia.org), it was the advent of commercially available yeast and finer flours in the mid to late 19th century which enabled non-professional cooks to bake good bread in their own homes. A little yeast along with a small amount of sugar can transform what starts off as lumpy liquid into a soft, silky, elastic dough after sufficient kneading. Since then, people in every part of the world have enjoyed creating, baking, and savouring breads of all kinds, and in every shape and size imaginable.
“The smell of good bread baking, like the sound of lightly flowing water, is indescribable in its evocation of innocence and delight…” ~ M. F. K. Fisher (1908-1992), The Art of Eating.
For many, such as myself, not only are all the senses pleasurably awakened and teased with the promise of mouth-watering goodness, but the exquisite aromas awaken childhood memories of days gone by when my grandmother baked huge batches of golden-brown loaves, and of the wonderfully aromatic, rich breads my mother would lovingly prepare for us as special treats. And there’s another bonus! Making your own bread the traditional way is not only enjoyable for the senses of touch, taste, vision, and smell- the creation of something so delicious and satisfying from simple ingredients using one’s own hands, without the need for more than a few measuring cups and spoons, is unbelievably satisfying and therapeutic!
In fact, making bread takes very little actual time on your part – about 15 minutes at the start, to measure, mix, and knead the ingredients is all that’s needed, plus a few minutes time and attention to punch the dough down and knead once or twice between provings, then to place the dough into the greased tins. The dough itself and the oven take care of the rest, leaving you plenty of time to do whatever you wish in between!
Bread is one of those things that requires judgement and experience, because depending on a variety of factors such as the flour, humidity in the air, size of your eggs, and precise quantities of flour and water, you may need more or less flour than specified. Recipe books are relatively recent, and it may surprise you to know that just 50 years ago, many people did not own a recipe book. Likewise, our grandmothers never used measuring spoons and cups to bake bread – though they did have the benefit of having learned from watching and helping bake their own family’s bread! Nowaday, though recipes for baking bread are much more accurate, they are to get you started and give you an idea of proportions to use. Different flours, even different flours of the same type, have different absorbtion rates, so despite having a recipe, you have to learn how to go by feel. You will know that sufficient flour has been added when the dough stops sticking to your hands. If all the flour has been used up and the dough is still a little sticky, add a little more flour, kneading it in well after each addition until the dough stops sticking to your hands. If the dough feels a little dry, then add a little water and knead it in well.
“Proving” is the process of allowing the dough to rise.
The actual time needed for dough to rise depends greatly on temperature and humidity, and on the quantity of yeast you use. Many cookbooks tell you to place the dough in a warm place but this is not necessary. Dough needs ample time to develop all the subtleties of flavour that distinguish an exceptional loaf from one that tastes bland. If the room is quite cool, the dough will take longer to rise but will develop great flavour.
Likewise, the less yeast you use, the longer your bread will take to rise, up to 24 hrs if you were to halve the amount of yeast in this recipe for example – but it would rise just as well and taste wonderful. For dough to rise well it must be protected from drafts and the atmosphere should not be too dry, which is why it must be loosely but completely covered when proving which protects it and helps keep moisture in.
The recipe is loosely based on one from well-known Canadian cook, Jean Paré. My aunt’s technique for making it differs considerably, as she lets the dough rise twice before separating it into portions, shaping it and placing it into the greased baking tins for a third proving before baking. As described above, this gives the dough extra time to develop its wonderful flavour and light texture.
So here is the step-by-step recipe for my aunt’s oatmeal bread.
This recipe makes two large loaves, or you can make several smaller loaves if you prefer.
♥ Enjoy! ♥
250 ml (1 c) old-fashioned rolled oats (do not use “quick” oatmeal)
50 ml (3 T) cold butter
60 ml (1/4 c) molasses
500 ml (2 c) boiling water
60 ml (1/4 c) warm water
5 ml (1 tsp) granulated sugar
8 g (1/4 oz) active dry yeast [use traditional - NOT fast acting]
75 ml (1/3 c) brown sugar, packed
10 ml (2 tsp) salt
1.5 l (6 c) all purpose [plain] flour
1 large egg white
15 ml (1 T) water
Rolled oat flakes for sprinkling on loaves prior to baking.
Slowly incorporate flour into liquid, mixing well with your hands, until the mixture starts to form a sticky dough. Then gradually knead more flour in until the dough stops sticking to your hands…
Knead the dough until it becomes smooth and elastic, then shape it into a ball and oil it it lightly. Clean the bowl well, oil the bowl lightly, and place the ball of dough with the seam side down, into the bowl.
Kneading Dough:
To knead the dough, there are several techniques. Here are two of them – use one that suits you:
1. Use the heel of your hand to push the dough away from you, then fold it over and give it a quarter turn. Start again and continue until the flour is absorbed before sprinkling on a little more. Repeat until all the flour is absorbed.
or
2. My preferred method (refer to fig. g. above): Using both of your hands, shape them into fists, and using your knuckles, squish them into the dough while turning them a little, doing this 2 – 3 times down the centre of the dough before folding it over and giving it a quarter turn. Start again and continue until the flour is absorbed before sprinkling on a little more. Repeat until all the flour is absorbed.
It’s important not to rush these steps! Take your time mixing the flour with the liquid, and then kneading the dough, as this is essential for developing the gluten. This, and the process of proving the dough, are what will make your bread tender as opposed to dense and stodgy!
Note: This process takes a litte time and experience to get right. But fear not! Unlike cakes and pastry, bread baking is much more forgiving – even if your loaves vary somewhat in shape and size, you can still bake them at the same time and for the same duration unless there is a major difference in size, such as a large loaf and mini loaves.
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Excellent article, thank you for the tips!
Thank you for your feedback, Syros! I’ll be posting new bread articles & recipes soon. I love fresh, home-made bread!
~ marie, the EpicureanPiranha
Great news, can’t wait!
There is a certain quality to bread (and all things pastry for that matter) that creates an irresistible, almost magical appeal. A truly special kind of food…
Alexander
:-) Couldn’t agree more, Alexander!
~ marie